In 2013, we went to Guatemala to see the giant kites flown in honor of Day of the Dead. I’m thinking of that trip now, amid the hubbub of Halloween planning here, and remembering the thrill of seeing those masterpieces of color and design and message, cut paper glued on bamboo, sent aloft to the sky. Here’s a video I posted before, but which bears re-watching. People ask what it is about Guatemala that captivates and obsesses me, and I say: “This. This!”

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