Birth family visit 2015

December 13th, 2015

I’ve written a few times about Olivia’s ongoing visits with her birth family. To recap: Olivia reunited with her birth mother “Ana”–a middle-aged widow–when she was seven years old. A year later, at age 8, Olivia met her birth grandmother, Abuela, and her siblings “Dulce” and “Santiago.” Over the next several years, we continued to visit the family, always in a neutral place, not Ana’s small village, because I worried about drawing unwanted attention to Ana and her family. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: In Guatemala, we stand out.

I knew our visit this year would be extra special because in 2015 our family experienced three important milestones. Olivia turned 13 and became a “senorita.” Dulce married her sweetheart and gave birth to her first baby. And Santiago moved away. Big changes, all.

On a Tuesday last June, Ana arrived by chicken bus at the appointed spot at the appointed time, as usual. But instead of clambering down the steps with Dulce and Abuela, she climbed out the back door alone. In my limited Spanish, I asked “Where is everybody?” and Ana answered that this year, we were coming to her house because the baby was too young to travel and the trip wasn’t easy for Abuela, either.

My attitude toward chicken buses is “Don’t ride them,” but what could I do? Nothing except run back to the hotel for our suitcase of gifts. Olivia and I hopped with Ana onto the next chicken bus for the return journey.

One chicken bus, one microbus, one taxi ride, and one uphill hike later, we stood in the lane at the gate in front of Ana’s adobe house, where Olivia’s family has lived for generations–possibly before the arrival of the conquistadors. A sumptuous lunch of fried chicken and squash and rice was served. The blue corn tortillas were handmade that morning from Ana’s own crop, the best we’ve ever eaten. Thirteen felt like the perfect age for Olivia to transition to a new setting. Abuela gave her a rosary necklace and Dulce’s new baby was beautiful.

As we finished lunch, Ana jumped up without notice and disappeared, and Dulce shrugged when I asked her why. A minute later, from the lane in front of the gate, a hundred firecrackers ignited and lit the sky, the snapping racket loud enough for every person in town to hear.

Ana’s daughter Olivia had come home.

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The movie “Spotlight”

December 10th, 2015

I recently saw the movie Spotlight and am as shaken as I was when the Church scandal broke. The film is riveting. I remain a practicing Catholic–we attend Mass and had our children baptized–because my belief in God transcends anything human. Catholicism is the conduit. In 2006, the SF Chronicle magazine published my essay “The Faithful,” about growing up Catholic, and my family’s response to the revelations. In case you want to read it, here’s the link.

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Canillas de Leche

December 9th, 2015

For his 5th-grade cultural project, Mateo chose the food of the Ancient Maya. Mostly this involved discussing the history of chocolate and tracking down roasted cacoa beans like the ones Mateo learned about this summer at Antigua’s Choco Museo. Because Mateo loves to cook, he also decided to make the very sweet Guatemalan milk candy known as canillas de leche. The candy is sold everywhere in Guatemala, and especially in the shop Maria Gordillo, located on Antigua’s Fourth Calle, up a block from the textile paradise, Colibri, and across from Hotel Aurora.

I don’t recommend making this particular version of canillas de leche. Recipes abound on the internet, and there’s one in the cookbook, False Tongues and Sunday Bread. Mateo and I used a “quick” version we found in the comments section of a blog I can no longer locate, which called for sweetened condensed milk instead of evaporated and confectioner’s sugar instead of regular. We also bypassed the hours of stirring and cooking required while waiting for various “soft ball” stages. Although our process was quicker, our finished product in no way resembled the sublime sweet smoothness of Maria Gordillo’s.

According to Mateo, though, none of his classmates complained. ~

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Book: Traditional Weavers of Guatemala

December 7th, 2015

As a gift to myself, I bought Traditional Weavers of Guatemala by Deborah Chandler, long-time resident of Guatemala, former director of Mayan Hands, and all-around expert on weaving. The book is as gorgeous as you would expect, with stunning photos and fascinating stories of individual artisans. Just a thought around holiday time, in case you know someone obsessed with textiles.

Here’s the description from Amazon:

Against the backdrop of Guatemala, this book presents portraits of artisans working in the ancient traditions of the Maya paired with insights into the creation of the textiles and the events that have affected their work. Weaving, spinning, and basket making have sustained the Maya economically and culturally against the pressures of change and a 36-year civil war that decimated their population. Their persistence in continuing traditional art has created some of the loveliest, most colorful textiles the world has ever known. Artisans share their personal histories, hopes, and dreams along with the products of their hands and looms. Their stories show determination in the face of unimaginable loss and hardship which instill an appreciation for the textiles themselves and for the strong people who create them.

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Museo Casa del Tejido

December 2nd, 2015

Behind the municipal Mercado in Antigua is the small, family-run Museo Casa del Tejido, a sumptuous collection of hand-made textiles from every department of Guatemala. Technically, the address is First Calle Poniente no. 51, but you’re better off finding it by going to the top of Santa Lucia near the ruins of La Recoleccion and walking straight back. The admission is not too much, and for a small fee, they’ll let you take pictures. Our guide spoke English fluently and taught us a lot.

Don’t go in expecting sealed cases and precious pieces protected from light and dust. This isn’t that kind of museum. Here, the traje of embroidered blouses and woven skirts are hung on rods or simply nailed to the wall, often approximating the figure of a person who might wear it. A stroll through the galleries impresses anyway, especially for anyone who loves textiles. Each weaving and embroidery is a unique balance of composition and color and story, beautiful in its own way.

If you visit Antigua, particularly with your children, schedule time for the Casa del Tejido. Afterwards, meander through the market for a perfect half-day.

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Washington Post essay on adoption

November 26th, 2015

For anyone who has waited for a child, fought for a child, loved a child, this Washington Post essay is for you. There are no simple answers. Only complexity.

Is She Happy? Is She Loved? Remembering the Girl Who Was Almost My Daughter by Sharon Van Epps

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“Guatemala” by Pete Sears

November 19th, 2015

This 1990 video titled “Guatemala” by Pete Sears shows the country’s beauty and simplicity. But the footage also includes disturbing, graphic scenes from Guatemala’s violent past.  The images are haunting. The video was first shared by Sharon Smart-Pogue of Mayan Families.

 

 

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Adoption Awareness Month

November 12th, 2015

November is Adoption Awareness Month, so lots of article on the subject are being published now. My thoughts on the one linked below: Yes. All true, for many. Some true, for all. Every child has his or her own journey and own truth. Every child is different.

I disagree with author Lisa Leontiades, however, when she calls her list “Hard Truths About Adoption Adoptive Parents Don’t Want to Hear.” To the contrary: We DO want to hear. That’s how we learn. Tell us, please. We’re listening.

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McFarland USA

November 6th, 2015

McFarland USA. Disney movie, out last February. But you know me, I’m a year behind in everything, and the kids and I finally watched the movie last night.

I love a good story about anyone who overcomes a challenge, especially when that challenge involves an athletic contest set to a rousing musical score. Briefly, McFarland USA is about a group of middle-school boys in California’s Central Valley, sons of migrant workers from Mexico, who are coached to cross-country greatness by Jim White, played by Kevin Costner.

Olivia, Mateo, and I loved McFarland USA. Afterward, as I sat drying my tears, I asked “What was the movie’s message?” and Mateo said, “There were so many.” (Very true!) But they settled on two: “Work hard.” and “Don’t give up.”

That’s takeaway enough for me, and worth sharing.

We got the DVD from the library, and I’m sure it’s available elsewhere, as well. See it, if you haven’t already. Inspiring.

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Kayaking Grandma

November 4th, 2015

I’ve been following the progress of Dr. Deb Walters, aka the “Kayaking Grandmother,” since July 2014, when she paddled off from her home in Maine and headed to Guatemala. Her intention is to raise awareness for “Safe Passage,” the organization founded by another Maine resident, the late Hanley Denning. (As you probably know, Safe Passage is the NGO that provides school support for children whose families survive by scavenging in Guatemala City’s garbage dump.)

On November 7, Dr. Deb Walters will be recognized by the United Nations as one of six “Rotary Global Women of Action.” She is the only person from North America to be so honored. In announcing the award, Rotary International President K.R. Ravindran noted Walters embodies the Rotary motto of “Service Above Self.” Walters, a former president of Safe Passage, said she feels “humbled.”

The Kayaking Grandmother currently is in Florida, with a little less than 1,000 miles less to paddle. Congratulations and Buen Viaje!

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